Toylander Plans
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One final modification I made to the original plans was to lower the floor so I could fit a drain pipe in to the floor at the bottom of the vehicle, as I had used an extra long piece of track to make the floor, I decided to make it into a housing for the drain pipe. The next big modification I made to the plans was that the back of the front seats in the Toylander are plastic, so I added metal side-bars to make them look like originals.
I decided to go for a simple easy solution that will last for years to come and could be modified for many different vehicles, so I decided to build a front suspension using a combination of spindles and arms for the front wheels, because it was an uncomplicated design and I am sure I can adapt it for other vehicles. I used the same front suspension as the drive line for the Jeep, Although I would recommend that if you are planning to build a Toylander you should just buy the drive line, suspension and steering box. The rear suspension I used is the one that is fitted to the 1.0 Land Rover 110, which is a leaf spring suspension.
As my plans were based on a 1948 Series I which had a flat floor, I knew I could build a folding floor and also use the Land Rover 100 4x4 floorboard to make the floor, so I used the links from the Manfrotto folding camera system to build a hinge mechanism to lift and lower the folding floor.
The Toylander 2s are a lot simpler to build than the 1s as they have only a steering box to worry about, with no suspension to deal with, so I decided to use the spare steering box and steering mechanism from a Land Rover 110 1.0L that was on the scrap heap, I also had two extra forward-facing seats from a Land Rover 130 and a floorboard from a Land Rover 80. I also had my son's old Land Rover 100 4x4 which I decided to use, The second steering box was a spare one I found on eBay and fitted to the steering box to make it look like an original. The dash is from a Land Rover 110 2.2L which had been stripped out.
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